Developing Countries Producing Modern Art: The National Gallery in Jordan
February 22, 2010 MuseumChick
(Below: Saleh Jumaie "The Ocean" 1981, Iraq, zinc and oil on canvas)

After several wrong turns and getting lost in the cab due to the language barriers, I arrived at the Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts and it was closed! I poked around the building until an employee noticed me and was nice enough to open the gallery and wait for me to finish my visit.
The Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts is located in the capital city of Amman and is divided into two separate buildings across from each other with a quiet sculpture garden separating them. One building is for the permanent collection and the other is for the temporary exhibits. As a major art museum in the Middle East, it boasts the largest collection of artworks from contemporary artists in the developing world.
I visited the permanent collection and found an array of work from countries that don't get as much exposure on the art scene. There was quality contemporary work from countries such as Iraq, Sudan and Palestine. They also exhibit many artists that are local to Jordan. The gallery is large and well designed with three floors with one overlooking the ground floor for a great elevated view of the artwork.
The Gallery of Fine Art's two building entrances
El Anatsui "Stonewash" Ghana/ Nigeria, 2002, Tropical Hardwoods, textile, house paint
Local Ammani artist, Suheil Beqa'een "Untitled", 2004
Benin, Africa "The Refugee's Babies' Bottle" Gerard Quenum, Mixed media
Laila Shawa "Walls of Gaza" Palestine, 1992, Silk screen on paper
Anees Maani "Untitled" Jordan, 1992, Plaster
City views of Amman and the Blue Mosque off of the balcony
Small library on the first floor. Great place to hang out with a book.
More of the modern, clean interior
When I was done looking around and taking pictures, the gallery worker was much relieved to be able to go home
and I went on the check out the National Gallery's public sculpture garden. After visiting the gallery, the garden is the perfect place to relax. I walked through the front gates into a lovely scent of rosemary. All over the park were the largest rosemary plants I've ever seen! These didn't look like the herbs I plant in my window for cooking. Along with sculptures, the grounds were also a sort of botanical garden assisting in water conservation and a children's playground.
Walking into the sculpture garden in the early evening
The plant life, with signs in English and Arabic
Colorful sculpture in the garden
The amazingly huge and pungent rosemary
Children playing in the dirt by the sculptures
Sculpture from artist Mustafa Ali from Syria
After the day of exploring art and gardens, I was made aware by Mr. Museumchick's cousin that the best shawarma "restaurant" in the world (rated by the New York Times) was just around the corner! Apparently, the locals told us, the King and Queen of Jordan frequent this place. So, I decided to try again to communicate with the cab driver to find Shawarma Reem. Not surprisingly, this was simple and he knew exactly where it was.
Shawarma Reem- The best shawarma in the world!
Mr. MuseumChick standing on line at Shawarma Reem. Get me two!
©2010 Danee Gilmartin All rights reserved















